Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.